Conversations…in Budapest
In the midst of spring cleaning a few weeks ago, a little yellow note fell out of a travel notebook I had carried on a trip to the Czech Republic, Hungary and Slovakia some years ago. “Dear Guests,” it read, “I’m really sorry for the inconveniences and thank you for your patience. As we could not have provided the service at the desired levels we would like to compensate you. Again, please my apologies. If you have any questions do not hesitate and turn to me. Best regards, Zsolt.” Along with the note was an envelope with 59 Euro in it, the cost of a room night at Kalvin Apartments. The previous evening when we had returned to our lovely little studio apartment, there was a bottle of wonderful Hungarian dessert wine (if you didn’t already know it, Hungary is famous for its dessert wines) on our dining table with a note of apology for the day. And yet none of what Zsolt was apologizing for was any of his fault. The local civic authorities had decided to undertake repair work on the main gas pipeline of the street on which Kalvin Apartments was located and hot water service was going to be impacted for a couple of days. Zsolt had not been aware of this earlier nor could he have done anything about it. Yet he chose to…twice over!
The Central Market Hall in Budapest is as much an architectural wonder as a treasure trove of food and souvenirs
The quirky For Sale pub plastered with messages and currency by travellers across the world
The imposing entrance to the Szechenyi Bath in Budapest, one of the largest bath complexes in Europe with 21 pools
What a wonderful experience Kalvin Apartments in Budapest had been. Located in the heart of Budapest, the entry to the apartment had us initially wondering if we had made the right choice of accommodation. Graffiti-stricken walls, a neighbourhood sex shop, an ominous looking, large, medieval wooden door at the entrance to the complex and dark passageways seemed deliberately placed to contrast with what Kalvin Apartments offered. Maintained beautifully and with warm service and hospitality, the apartment was all that we needed as we explored Budapest. A wander through the post-war restored Central Market where we picked up paprika, Hungarian salami and sausages, and delicately embroidered linen gifts; hunting down restaurants for wholesome meals of delicious Hungarian goulash; beer and music nights including one at the quirky For Sale pub (no, it wasn’t for sale); a ride on Line One of the underground metro which is a fascinating journey through decorative station walls and Hungary’s glorious past (in service since 1896 when Line One was inaugurated, the Budapest Metro is the oldest electrified underground railway system in Europe and the second-oldest electrically operated underground railway in the world); an impromptu getaway to the charming, cobbled town of Szentendre; and finally, a cultural as much as a medicinal immersion at the world famous Szechenyi Thermal Baths, one of the biggest natural hot spring spa baths in Europe. These were all enduring memories of Budapest, as much as the warmth and apologetic kindness of Zsolt Molnár.
Romanian countryside
View of the courtyard at Bran or Dracula’s Castle, now a museum housing a collection of furniture and art that belonged to Queen Marie of Romania
Years of internal strife and struggle under challenging regimes seem to have bestowed on the people of Eastern Europe a gratitude and graciousness that touches you in a reflective, poignant way. On a family visit to Romania a few years ago, many locals who we met could not believe that we had travelled all the way from our country just to visit theirs. They were very interested in our itinerary and what we thought of their country and, of course, what our country was like. But they also regaled us with stories of their lives. The tour guide in Bucharest who told us what it had been like for her father to have been involved in the construction of the Palace of the Parliament, a symbol of dictator Ceausescu’s megalomania; the taxi driver who compared life in the communist and post-communist era and his hopes and aspirations for his children and grandchildren as we drove from Bucharest to Brasov with a stopover at Dracula’s Castle.
Casa Albert in all her elegance
At Brasov, our stopover for a few days, we were totally enchanted. Our Bordeaux Suite at Casa Albert with its beautiful murals and vintage white furniture delivered on the ‘style and elegance’ it promised on its website and had an added attraction in the form of a blooming hibiscus in our room. Antonela and Dan, who own the place, were on hand to guide us with our schedules and itinerary but even more. When my husband, always interested in the local liquors of places we visit, asked Dan about where he could buy some, by evening there were two packed, unlabeled PET bottles of tuică, a local plum brandy waiting for us. Dan had contacted friends who distilled the brandy and gone out of his way to pick up the bottles for us. As intoxicating as the brandy, was Dan’s gesture in arranging the two bottles…they accompanied us through the rest of our journey in Romania, a reminder of the warmth and generosity of its people…and, of course, the potent spirits they brew! Wikipaedia says that a modern portrayal of a modern village inhabitant in Romania almost always includes a bottle of țuică. We were that family now.
The historic city of Brasov can throw up some surprises like Strada Sforii or Rope Street (on the right) which is one of the narrowest streets in Europe. Ranging between 44-53 inches, the street was built in the 15th century to allow access for firemen.
The homes in Sighisoara, Romania (amongst one of the prettiest towns I have been to) blend in with the colours of autumn to create beautiful picture postcards
Many years earlier so much so that I don’t even recall the resort we stayed in, our older daughter who was all of five then, was quite devastated to have to check out of our villa in Lombok, Indonesia, because she could not bear to leave behind the little resort kitten she had befriended. So what did our resort do? They sent the kitten with us to the airport so that my daughter could enjoy every minute of time left in Lombok with her.
Little acts of unexpected kindness make for memorable holidays…
Brasov…memories that endure