Travelling Trunks

“I’m so glad I live in a world where there are Octobers,” L M Montgomery, Anne of Green Gables

Thanaka paste, a distinguishing feature of the people of Myanmar. Made from ground bark, the paste is believed to have both beautifying and skin protecting properties

“On the 27th (of October) I will be on my own and was wondering if you were free to take me around. Something unusual and different. It is also my birthday and I would like to do something memorable…,” so began my email exchange with Min Thu, a horse cart owner (or what we would refer to as a tongawala) in Bagan, Myanmar. My research on Bagan had yielded very positive reviews about Min Thu and since I liked to throw in a few unplanned days into my solo travels, my birthday was to be one of them.

The reply came a couple of weeks later with an apology for the delay. “My dear friend Melissa,” it began. “I am very glad to read your e-mail…Thank you so much to encourage my horse cart service in Bagan,” and with the mail came questions about where I was staying and what time I would like to begin my day. On the evening of the 26th of October, Min Thu was at the resort where I was staying to confirm that I had arrived and on the 27th, he was there promptly at 930 am to pick me up. By all accounts, October 27, 2011, was one of the most memorable birthdays I have ever had.

The stunning Bagan landscape

For two days before I met Min Thu, I had hired a car and been to all the important pagodas and temples that are on the tourist map of Bagan. One of the richest archeological towns in the world, it is estimated that Bagan was once home to between 10,000 – 13,000 temples, monasteries and pagodas although little over 2000 have survived today. These brown structures form stunning silhouettes against the verdant green landscape and the blue skies.

Hues of browns and blues and green made for a stunning visual treat

Yet, as I was to discover through MinThu, the best was yet to come. Making his way through the labyrinth of browns and greens, Min Thu introduced me to an amazing world of temples and pagodas not plotted on any tourist map. In doing so, he guided me to the best camera angles for my pictures, played photographer at times and knew exactly where I needed to be for the most gorgeous sunset view.

Min Thu was well versed with the best camera angles

He took me to his village and showed me a fascinating glimpse of what rural life was like, while introducing me to his family and friends. Knowing that I wanted a local immersion, lunch was at a tiny little local restaurant where I had the biggest birthday spread ever! We also visited a local weaver and a small scale lacquerware unit. Bagan is at the heart of the lacquerware industry in Myanmar and its origins here can be traced back to the 12th century. Tapped from the Thitsee tree that grows in the forests of Myanmar, the sap goes through a series of processes before reaching final form. My find was an unusual lacquerware handbag…my birthday gift to myself.

My birthday lunch at a little local restaurant…and dessert was yet to come!

A fascinating find…a family making rice noodles the traditional way, something I had only ever seen in a Discovery Channel programme

It was late evening when we got back to my resort after what was a long and immersing day. Through the journey I could not help but notice Min Thu’s kindness and concern for his horse. Whether it was his lunch or water, we stopped in time to ensure the horse was taken care of. As I reflected on all of this and the wonderful day that I had had in the company of an absolute stranger, I was totally unprepared for how it would end. For as I got off my horse cart and paid Min Thu (a small amount which I had earlier bargained over and would later regret) , I was in turn handed a gift-wrapped beautiful lacquerware tissue holder and a handwritten travelogue where Min Thu had documented all that we had visited that day. I was completely overwhelmed…for someone whose parents work in the fields and whose life is a long struggle to find business, he taught me big lessons in giving that day.

It’s not surprising that in 2016 Myanmar continued to be ranked as the world’s most giving nation The CAF World Giving Index is scored by averaging the percentage of people in each country who donated money, volunteered or helped a stranger in the previous month. The results, the study says, demonstrate very sharply how a “poor” country can be a “rich” one through its generosity, by focusing on giving rather than getting.” The lacquerware box in my dining room today stands testimony to that.

MinThu and his Horse Cart

PS: Min Thu and I still keep in touch…I was lucky to be able to send him a Lucknowi chikankari kurta, a Kerala lungi and Indian sweets for his family when a friend was visiting Myanmar. “My dear friend Melissa,” he wrote, “I got your lovely gifts. I like very much. They are very beautiful and lovely shirt with a lot of decoration. I will remember you always when I wear it.” Earlier this year, when the earthquake hit Myanmar, I sent him a mail and he wrote back with some pictures to say he and his family were okay but a lot of the glorious monuments were damaged.